Balenciaga’s Heritage in Italian Fashion. The Federico Forquet and Roberto Capucci Cases Between Aesthetics and Marketing

Balenciaga's heritage in Italian fashion. The Federico Forquet and the Roberto Capucci cases between aesthetics and marketing The aim of this research is to explore the enduring heritage of Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga and its profound impact on post-World War II Italian fashion, both in terms of aesthetics and marketing. This study examines how Balenciaga’s architectural approach to fashion, characterized by sculptural proportions and clarity of form, deeply influenced prominent Italian couturiers, from Carosa to Fabiani, from Mila Schön and Simonetta to Roberto Capucci. Drawing on archival resources from the Federico Forquet Archive and the Roberto Capucci Foundation, the research highlights Balenciaga’s direct mentorship of Federico Forquet, who worked as his assistant for three seasons. Forquet’s designs reflect Balenciaga’s aristocratic and architectural aesthetic, as well as his commitment to couture. Like Balenciaga, Forquet chose to preserve the integrity of his artistic vision rather than embrace prêt-à-porter, maintaining a focus on handcrafted, exclusive pieces and preserving their vision of elegance over commercial expansion. From a marketing perspective, the research delves into how Balenciaga’s heritage reshaped the concept of exclusivity in fashion by emphasizing artisanal craftsmanship and intimate, private presentations. This strategy contrasted with the more public runway shows of the time and influenced some Italian designers to adopt a similar approach, positioning their brands as symbols of luxury and personal attention to detail. This concept of exclusivity and personalization has strongly resonated with Italian fashion marketing, where many brands still focus on the idea of artisanal luxury and a storytelling centered on attention to detail and uncompromising quality. This study, apart from documentary sources, relies on the relevant literature on fashion history and fashion marketing. It contributes to a deeper understanding of how Balenciaga’s legacy shaped the development of Italian couture and luxury branding in the postwar period